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View Full Version : 1992 Integra DB2 LS Vtec in tha midst



Meticulous_Guy
05-03-2011, 08:31 PM
Hey, I've been out of the Honda scene for about 3 years but this year I'm hoping to spend as much time and research as possible into my 1992 Integra DB2.
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I am the 3rd owner of this rare car. I bought the car from a guy in Guelph, named Matt, who took good care of the car. He bought it from a older guy who garage kept the car for the most part. Unfortunately, neither Matt or I had a chance to garage keep the teg and now it is starting to show by surface rust around the back corner of the wheel wells.

The body had a bit of bubbling surface rust when I bought it. And, the springs were swapped with Skunk 2 lowering springs. Which held up quite well considering I brought the B17A1 from Guelph back to Kingston. I have since changed the GS-R/Skunk 2 setup for a set of GS-R suspension that has a meer 50k of use.
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x367/Meticulous_Guy/IMG_0384.jpg

The engine that came with the car was a B16A, the B17A1 was pulled a year prior. The B16A ran strong but it burned oil. I visited family in Sherbrooke, Quebec (at the time from Kingston to Sherbrooke it was ~900km round trip) I believe it burned anywhere from 3/8 - 1/2 a L of oil.
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Several years ago, September 2007, I bought a 1992 Integra RS with a stock LS V. The wheel wells were badly rusted and the rockers had holes in several areas. I remember spending 8 hours restoring one side, cutting metal, grinding, molding pieces, and finally primering. A week after I didn't have any free time to spend on the car as work progressively picked up. I sold the head to a guy in Nanaimo, B.C. who P&P, 5 angled it and used it with P72 GS-R cams to make 460 something HP at 19lb boost. I had the B18B block sitting in my basement ever since.
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So I decided to research, and research, and research, until I knew for sure what parts worked great for the outcomes of the LS V's that were built from members on this forum as well as many other forums.

It took several months before the parts were compiled but it was well worth the wait. I am quite happy with the results. And will be even more happy once the chip kit comes in from Phearable. I haven't broke the engine in quite yet. It currently has 130km to the point as it sits in my driveway waiting for a rebuilt alternator.
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Meticulous_Guy
05-03-2011, 08:46 PM
The parts consisted of;

Pistons: RS Machine USDM P73-A0 82mm ITR
Piston Rings: Hastings .040 over
Rods: Std LS, shotpeened, milled bosses 1mm (each side), big ends resized
Rod Bolts: ARP
Crank: Std LS, micropolished
Rod, Main Bearings: ACL Race
Thrust Washers: ACL
Headgasket: Cometic .027" MLS 3 layer
Headstuds: ARP
Dowel Pins: LS V
Spark Plugs: NGK BKR7Eix
Drain Plug: Magnetic
Water Pump: Honda OEM P72
Oil Pump: Honda OEM P72
Tensioner: Honda OEM P72
Timing Belt: Honda OEM P72

The fittings, and tap tools, I bought from a local machine shop in Kingston.

t-royMP3
05-03-2011, 11:12 PM
i love fruitsations!

PDP
05-04-2011, 03:25 AM
^^^ hahaha

Meticulous_Guy
05-08-2011, 10:38 PM
Quick update. I have been hearing a fair amount of what sounds like back firing when the car is cold, and my idle was fairly high at 1,100rpm after the engine warmed up. That was with the distributor set between the middle mark and retarded. I decided to turn the distributor completely retarded. The back firing noise is almost non existant. I hear it occasionally when I am cruising and ease off the gas for a moment. If I completely let off the gas, the noise is completely gone. But, much less set @ completely retarded.

Does this sound right? I understand the engine is new and has not been tuned but, I am leaning towards buying cams before I 'break in' the engine so that it is ready to be tuned. What are the typical degrees of adjustment on a distributor? 10 degrees retarded/advanced?

Almost frogot to ad that my idle improved substantially with more retarded timing. Now @ ~850-950rpm.


USPS was sent an electronic notification in regards to the chip kit for my P61 ECU. That was back on the 2nd, haven't seen an update since then.

blackfoot
05-08-2011, 10:45 PM
nice build!

blackfoot
05-08-2011, 10:47 PM
Get a timing light, and time the dizzy properly

handyman
05-09-2011, 12:23 AM
the problem with ls vtecs is the deck height is different and in turn affected the timing belt alignment. this causes one of the cams to be out a approximately half a tooth. ideally you would want to run adjustable cam gears so you can get a proper base timing set. also if you are running this on the stock b17 ecu you will be running lean and can cause a slight misfire.

Meticulous_Guy
05-10-2011, 04:14 PM
Latest update. I corrected the mechanical timing last night and everything was running great. Even got the dizzy close to the middle mark with the engine running in prime condition. Now my transmission is not working right. For instance, I can start the car OK, rev the engine OK, when I put the transmission into ANY gear, the speedo starts climbing but the axles will not turn. If I press the clutch out, the speedo drops.

I'm at a loss currently as I have a potential job on Friday. I thought I was on the home stretch towards completing the LS v and now I just hit a brick wall...

That's it for today.

Meticulous_Guy
05-24-2011, 10:09 PM
Another quick update. I got an LS tranny for the 5th gear set. As well as an J4D LSD '96 itr tranny. It appears that all of the internals are in good condition on the itr trany aside from a couple issues. One being the bearing on the top of the counter shaft that's missing. Two being the first gear ring synchro ring has a small amount of wear (but I have a replacement first gear ring in good condition. Third being the second gear synchro is at least half worn. I plan on using the second gear synchro from the LS as it is in good condition. Hoping o have the tranny in by late Friday!

That's it for now

Meticulous_Guy
05-25-2011, 10:15 PM
Attached is a photo of the J4D LSD 96' ITR Tranny when the case was taken off. I found it a bit strange when I took off the cap bolt to access the c clip then realized the cap bolt was barely on at all, and their appeared to be no bearing attached to the c clip.

Meticulous_Guy
05-26-2011, 02:28 PM
Good news! I has a local transmission shop (Strictly transmissions) in Tincap just outside of brockville, un press the bearings and gears from both the itr and LS counter shafts. I swapped the the worn 1st gearset from the itr tranny for the good condition 1st gearset from the LS tranny. I also swapped the short .848 5th gearset from the itr tranny for the .742 5th gearset from the LS tranny for great gas mileage on the highway.

I'm planning to install the itr tranny into the cable case tonight and possibly install the tranny depending on time

That's it for this afternoon!

Meticulous_Guy
05-28-2011, 06:01 PM
Got the tranny installed. Checked all the wiring. Plugged in the chipped ECU. and got a problem before I was able to crank over the engine.

CEL light was on solid and the fuel pump would consistently purge. So I removed the SST chip, took out the jumper at J1. CEL light and fuel pump went off after about 2-3 seconds. Cranked the engine a couple times and no start...

Checked spark plugs, no spark. Anyone have any input?

Meticulous_Guy
06-05-2011, 10:00 PM
Quick update. I cleaned the terminals on the rotor and cap. I seen a spark on #1 and #2 wires when holding the plug to the ground screw on the head, but not on #3 or #4. The spark I had seen seemed to be intermitten.

I am still getting error code 15 (ignitor) occasionally when I crank the engine.

I'm going to replace the distributor once I have the time to do so, possibly the wires as well. Any thoughts?

mathewb20
06-06-2011, 09:17 AM
It could be either the dizzy or the wires. Its all trouble shooting. 1 step at a time

III76
06-06-2011, 09:34 AM
good build, keep up the great work