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Thread: Review for TravisRSX; not recommended to build engine blocks

  1. #1
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    Default Review for TravisRSX; not recommended to build engine blocks

    I'm certainly not new to the forum and have built my fair share of engines, from scratch.
    With that said, I am writing for the review of TravisRSX.

    I was nearing the 100k mark on the dash and thought, what if I could sell my engine for a reasonable price? I could use that money towards a K24. Added torque.

    At the start of November, a person responded to my Kijiji ad. An email I was familiar with before. Turns out I sold him a B16A from 5 years back. He said he still has it but has replaced the cams with a set of ITRs. Nice. Anyways, he threw #3 rod bearing. Pieces were everywhere and there was a gouge in the oil pump pickup from the rod. Needless to say, he needed a replacement engine. And luckily, we both share the same chassis. 2010 Civic Si Sedan, 2006 Civic Si Coupe.

    Before removing my engine and my buddies engine, I researched for a K24. I seen a couple good choices in Toronto. Complete K24, ~$1,600-1800. Wasn't the year I was looking for. There were some advantages to buying a 2008. So I continued researching, until I came across Travis' engine build and thought, great, he is also part of Redliners. Must be a solid build.

    I had to borrow the money up front to buy Travis' engine. Then traveled to meet. Once I arrived, I looked over the engine. Had Travis remove the oil pan, as well as the oil pan baffle, to ensure everything was new. Yup, all new.

    So then it was turned a couple times. As I was turning it, I seen that the valves' stems were pitted.
    I went to lunch at that time while Travis re assembled. We talked about a price via text without the head. We came up with a package price for the 'rebuilt' K24A4 accord block with new 2012 Civic Si pistons & rods, ACL bearings, blueprint headstuds, and headgasket.

    I then took my engine out and swapped it to my buddies 2006 Civic Si Coupe. Easy. Well lengthy but none-the-less, straight forward.

    I bought a K20 head and had it machined at TDC engines in Kingston; 3-angle valve grind, milled 5 thou, hot tanked and vacuum checked.

    I then assembled the engine. Again, lengthy but straight forward. There were new timing chains, timing chain guides, tensioner (sp?), valve cover gasket & fastener grommets, spark plug tube seals, the whole 9 yards for all new gaskets for the engine and even quite a few new bolts.

    So after all that, a buddy and I re installed the engine, checked fluids, checked for CEL codes, built up oil pressure & fuel pressure then started the engine.

    Wow, there was a loud rattle... After all that time, money, traveling.

    Back to taking out the engine. Lets check over everything. Turns out the rods were tapping slightly on the oil pan baffle. Luckily, the rods only lost their grit and were smooth for the very end of the rod. I took off the oil pan baffle and had it spaced. 1 washer for each 6 bolts that hold the oil baffle to the block. Not sure if it was bent previously however this is something to be cautious of when building a K24/20. Travis said the write up called for an RSX oil pan baffle. OK, so that issue has been fixed. Re-install the engine.

    After the engine worked it's way up to normal temp. I shut it off, checked compression; cyl 1: 191psi, cyl 2: 177psi, cyl 3: 192psi, cyl 4:189 psi. Hmm, I wonder why cyl #2 has lower compression... I didn't think much of it at the time.

    I ran the engine below 3,500rpms for 5,032kms before compression checking again. cyl 1: 199psi, cyl 2: 187psi, cyl 3: 198psi, cyl 4: 199psi. Again with cyl #2 having lower compression.

    I asked Travis about the build. I asked if the block was honed before installing the new pistons. He said "no". I also asked if the piston rings were sized or if he knows of the bearing clearances, he said "I can't remember that was about a year ago and like I told you my mechanic friend put it together with me and I don't remember what it was"


    That's my reasoning behind this review. I hope this helps the community when / if they decide to buy parts from TravisRSX. I'm sure with the proper hone, this engine would have a tighter psi difference. The B16A, LS Vtec and ITR were all within 2-3 psi across the board. What became of those engines? The B16A was sold to the same guy who bought my original (K20Z3) engine. I sold the LS block and had the head completely rebuilt for the ITR build (new valve guides, new valve seals, new valves, 3-angle valve grind, port matched & polished, milled 5 thou). The ITR is strong however, I still need an exhaust welded so I don't wake up the neighbors. I simply have a Hytech header setup at the moment. So there you have it. Reliable, Not Cheap & Fast. I picked 2.

    Comments? Feel free to write your thoughts. At this point, I'm hoping the K24 engine lasts until spring so that I can finish the ITR



    Regards,

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    Before you start bashing me on the forums why don't you put up the real information. You asked if rings were gaped and I said yes and you asked if it had a fresh home I said no. This stuff had been gone over well before you decided to pay for the motor. You looked everything over and asked many many questions including what parts were put into the motor, what bearings, and whether or not the motor had a fresh hone. If your such an expert then you would have know to run this motor with the proper ECU, KPRO, which I had told you before. Last time I talked to you, you were running this motor with your stock Si ecu which is not the way to go. This isn't B series.

    As for the rod ends making contact with the baffle plate. This was the first time I have ever heard about being a problem. I looked all over the forums to see if there were any contact issues with rod to baffle plate contact with the OEM rods that were chosen and there was nothing to be found. The motor wasn't thrown together over night. A lot of time, money and research went into building it.

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    Wow. Travis, you do realize I have been running FlashPro as my car is an 8th Civic Si?
    I have in black and white, messages we communicated (from Dec 5th, at a local mechanics garage) regarding the rods hitting the oil pan baffle plate. I sent you (Travis) photos of the oil pan baffle place as well as rods affected. Nothing structurally damaging, the 'tip' of the 'big end' of the rods are now very smooth (no grit) for cylinders 2 to 4. Proof? Sure, I can re send the photos or, I can take a screen shot of the messages from my phone.
    Also, you did not state wether the cylinders had/didn't have a fresh hone at the time of meeting. Clearly there is ovalising in cyl #2. And, on 2 occasions when I asked about the lower cyl #2 psi, you did not reply.
    Last edited by Meticulous_Guy; 02-17-2014 at 06:02 AM.

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    Legacy Member valera's Avatar
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    The compression difference is within specks. Your head rebuild/ installation can affect compression just as much as the block. Typical for redliners to start bitching without actually figuring out the source of the problem. This isnt a ferarri engine, just some shitty 4 cyl.

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    Valera,

    The compression may be within spec however, there were mechanical issues I was stating.

    And, considering the previous engines I've built, cylinders 2 & 3 are most likely to ovalize (sp?). Thus the reason to have the cylinder walls inspected, then buy pistons based on how much needs to be bored/honed to achieve a round cylinder.

    Tell me something, would you assemble a used block with brand new internals without measuring clearances? Sounds like a blind investment to me.

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    Legacy Member valera's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meticulous_Guy View Post
    Valera,

    The compression may be within spec however, there were mechanical issues I was stating.

    And, considering the previous engines I've built, cylinders 2 & 3 are most likely to ovalize (sp?). Thus the reason to have the cylinder walls inspected, then buy pistons based on how much needs to be bored/honed to achieve a round cylinder.

    Tell me something, would you assemble a used block with brand new internals without measuring clearances? Sounds like a blind investment to me.
    Sounds to me that you knew enough about the rebuild before you bought the block. You could have and probably did ask all the questions before buying it and now just giving the guy a bad name. He obviously couldn't run the engine before he sold it to you so there is some risk on your part too. You should have bought a block yourself and rebuild it the way you'd like if you wanted a brand new condition engine. Like I said before, the head rebuild and installation could be the problem too, so dont jump to conclusions without figuring out what's wrong first.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Meticulous_Guy View Post
    Wow. Travis, you do realize I have been running FlashPro as my car is an 8th Civic Si?
    I have in black and white, messages we communicated (from Dec 5th, at a local mechanics garage) regarding the rods hitting the oil pan baffle plate. I sent you (Travis) photos of the oil pan baffle place as well as rods affected. Nothing structurally damaging, the 'tip' of the 'big end' of the rods are now very smooth (no grit) for cylinders 2 to 4. Proof? Sure, I can re send the photos or, I can take a screen shot of the messages from my phone.
    Also, you did not state wether the cylinders had/didn't have a fresh hone at the time of meeting. Clearly there is ovalising in cyl #2. And, on 2 occasions when I asked about the lower cyl #2 psi, you did not reply.
    Actually you knew the block didn't have a fresh hone when you inspected it at my house that day. You and I both know what a fresh hone looks like so don't play stupid.

    If you want to post screen shots of texts, why don't you post the one of you threating me with this review if I didn't want to pay for your motor to be broken down and given a fresh hone.

    Quote Originally Posted by Meticulous_Guy View Post
    Valera,

    The compression may be within spec however, there were mechanical issues I was stating.

    And, considering the previous engines I've built, cylinders 2 & 3 are most likely to ovalize (sp?). Thus the reason to have the cylinder walls inspected, then buy pistons based on how much needs to be bored/honed to achieve a round cylinder.

    Tell me something, would you assemble a used block with brand new internals without measuring clearances? Sounds like a blind investment to me.
    What mechanical issues? As I stated very early this morning I have never seen nor read about these rods making contact ever before. Also as stated before I spend a lot of time, money and research putting the motor together. It was supposed to be put into my own vehicle but after certain things at home came up I was forced to sell it. I didn't want to but home life came before a bigger motor in my daily.

    Quote Originally Posted by valera View Post
    Sounds to me that you knew enough about the rebuild before you bought the block. You could have and probably did ask all the questions before buying it and now just giving the guy a bad name. He obviously couldn't run the engine before he sold it to you so there is some risk on your part too. You should have bought a block yourself and rebuild it the way you'd like if you wanted a brand new condition engine. Like I said before, the head rebuild and installation could be the problem too, so dont jump to conclusions without figuring out what's wrong first.
    Thank you for your response. He did ask many questions. He spent about 1 1/2 at my house looking it over before deciding he wanted it.

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    Legacy Member Knoxville's Avatar
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    This guy sounds like a fucking tool..

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    III76 is funny.

    As for engine builds. Every engine i've rebuidl i have got honed or bored when fresh piston rings go in. blah blah blah hone new piston rings good blah blah. I wish Bastard was still here. sumthign oer other. Get Donny to fix it. more turbo yak yaky

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    Can someone enlighten me, how to attach photos?

    I will gladly attach screen-shots of my phone, stating that there was rod to oil baffle interference discussed with TravisRSX. I also have several photos of dis-assembling the oil pan, and spacing the RSX-S oil pan. Dec 5th; 8:25pm.

    The neglect of honing the cylinders was not discussed until Feb 15th; 6:57pm. Is that my fault for not asking? I didn't realize that, by not asking, I can buy a 'rebuilt' engine block that hasn't been properly prepared before assembly. My reputation is worth more than missing a portion of a project and having it cause an issue in the result.

    And yes, I did ask TravisRSX if he would prefer to correct the honing issue before posting a review. Providing a chance, rather than assuming.

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    Upload them to Tinypic and post the links.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Meticulous_Guy View Post
    Can someone enlighten me, how to attach photos?

    I will gladly attach screen-shots of my phone, stating that there was rod to oil baffle interference discussed with TravisRSX. I also have several photos of dis-assembling the oil pan, and spacing the RSX-S oil pan. Dec 5th; 8:25pm.

    The neglect of honing the cylinders was not discussed until Feb 15th; 6:57pm. Is that my fault for not asking? I didn't realize that, by not asking, I can buy a 'rebuilt' engine block that hasn't been properly prepared before assembly. My reputation is worth more than missing a portion of a project and having it cause an issue in the result.

    And yes, I did ask TravisRSX if he would prefer to correct the honing issue before posting a review. Providing a chance, rather than assuming.
    Post whatever you want to post.

    Yes the rod ends touched the baffle plate. Plate was brand new never dropped, never bent or anything. I never saw anything about there being a contact issue when I chose the parts so I was as surprised as you were when you told me. I actually just did a google search this morning and found one other person with the same issue and he did exactly what you did, added a single washer and it fixed the problem with no other issues.

    As for you not knowing about the fresh hone. Don't lie to make yourself look better. You knew it didn't have a fresh hone when you bought the block. We discussed this. You asked why and I told you and showed you. The Accord block that was used for the build was originally an automatic motor. I personally knew the guy who owned the car and he took very good care of the car and didn't abuse it. Anyway when the block was torn down there was still cross hatching in the cylinder walls from factory and it was decided not to do the hone. I guess that was an oversight. As stated I previously I was supposed to use this motor in my own vehicle but home stud came up. I didn't sell you a lemon motor trying to screw you over so stop trying to make it out that way.

    Also yeh you did text me at about 8 or so the night you made this and posted this up 3 hours later. I never even got a chance I respond back to you. You didn't provide a chance for anything you threw me under a bus and are trying to give me a bad name by trying to play stupid with this when it was proven by yourself and by another member that you are knowledgeable with motors but your saying your not at the same time with what you say. The only reason why you didn't get a response was because my phone was dead and I wasn't home to charge it.

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    I was looking to get a block built, but I definitely won't be taking it to TravisRSX. Not the first thread I've read from someone unhappy with his services.

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    As promised;

    K24 Oil Baffle Plate http://i59.tinypic.com/2nv3syd.jpg http://i57.tinypic.com/ehnrjl.jpg

    K24 Hone http://i57.tinypic.com/10wo386.jpg http://i58.tinypic.com/rt0ops.jpg

    On 02-17-2014, 11:08 AM, TravisRSX wrote;
    "You and I both know what a fresh hone looks like so don't play stupid."
    On 02-22-2014, 10:01 AM, TravisRSX wrote;
    "Anyway when the block was torn down there was still cross hatching in the cylinder walls from factory and it was decided not to do the hone. I guess that was an oversight."

    Those statements are certainly not contradicting...


    It should not matter if there appears to be a cross-hatch, what you can not see, is what a dial-bore gauge will prove.
    Last edited by Meticulous_Guy; 02-22-2014 at 03:28 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jza View Post
    I was looking to get a block built, but I definitely won't be taking it to TravisRSX. Not the first thread I've read from someone unhappy with his services.
    Who the fuck are you and what the fuck are you talking about? I have had ZERO issues over the past 3 years selling parts through the forums be it on here, k20a, CRSX, HT ect.

    Seems you just like to troll the forum cause you have nothing better to do.......

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    im on jza's side.
    Travis sounds like a sketchy name too.
    Hasnt anyone told you, scotchbrite pads are NOT honing tools!!! You need to use 000 steel wool!
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    Well ya cant fix stupid can ya? Sumone obv has more money than brains

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    Quote Originally Posted by TravisRSX View Post
    Who the fuck are you and what the fuck are you talking about? I have had ZERO issues over the past 3 years selling parts through the forums be it on here, k20a, CRSX, HT ect.

    Seems you just like to troll the forum cause you have nothing better to do.......
    Bullshit. I've read reviews about people who are very unhappy with the garbage you sold them.

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